The Friendly Bathroom

 

The following is intended as an introduction to what's available and serves as a foundation for planning.

 

 

When it comes to getting in, around and out, there are some ideals you should shoot for. The degree to which they can or should be achieved depends on a number of factors, including whether you're building a new house or renovating an existing bathroom, your level of injury, and how fat your wallet is.

 

Wider is better when you're talking about doors. Most guides agree that your door should be at least six inches wider than your chair. Methods of achieving this in existing bathrooms can range from the inexpensive (Swing Clear Hinges from Accessible Environments, which can add inches of space) to the expensive (re-framing and replacing the door).

 

One increasingly popular solution is the pocket door, which slides into the wall frame. In small bathrooms, this creates a great deal of space and convenience, since a traditional door's swing is eliminated.

 

Once inside, the best case scenario is that you (and an attendant, if you have one) can close the door and complete a 360-degree turn. The specification contained in most guides to barrier free design is that the free floor space should be at least 5' x 5'. Deleting a cabinet vanity and replacing it with a roll under version or a pedestal sink can help you get closer to the ideal. 

 

If you and an attendant use a patient lift device, you'll obviously need as much floor space as possible.
 

Naturally, you need free access to whatever you're using or transferring to. And, for those who go solo, anti-slip grab bars are virtually a necessity anywhere you perform a transfer. Grab bars should be able to support at least 250 pounds. A good option for new construction or extensive renovations is to cover the framing  with æ" or 1" plywood before the drywall goes on. With this, you'll be able to mount your grab bars anywhere-and you might not get their placement just right the first time.

 

If you are installing a new surface, keep in mind that there are excellent non-slip choices available in both linoleum and ceramic tile.

 

 

 

The average cabinet-style vanity is impractical for wheelchair users. One alternative is a pedestal sink. But a roll-under vanity might be a better idea - it allows you to get even closer to the sink, and still provides plenty of surface area for toothbrushes, hair dryers and the like. The vanity should be lowered for wheelchair users (most people seem comfortable with the countertop about 32" from the floor).

 

If you choose the roll-under vanity option, pay close attention to hot water pipes and valves underneath. If it's possible they could burn you, wrap them with insulating foam tubing. As for faucets, choose the variety with a single lever, in which flow and temperature can be adjusted with a single hand.

 

For those with limited hand strength, there are a few options available.  There are sensor-activated faucets on the market, which switch on when you stick your hands in and break an infrared beam.  Other considerations are anti-scald valves (pressure or thermostat controlled) and a faucet that looks ordinary but pulls out on a hose-perfect for washing hair.

 

In terms of lost storage, consider a conveniently placed wall cabinet. And don't forget your mirror-install it low enough, or tilt it down.

 

 

 

Shower or tub? Your choice. The most preferred option is the roll-in shower. Roll-in showers generally require at least five feet in width plus three to four feet in depth. A sloped entrance and proper drainage are critical to prevent seepage into the floor or foundation. Also, curtains are easier to operate than doors.

 

Your roll-in can be built in place out of ceramic tile or purchased as a fiberglass unit. Fiberglass roll-ins are available in one piece or "knockdown" configurations. The one-piece models are for new construction only. There are several companies making these units. See your local plumbing supply store for more information.

 

If you opt for a waterproof shower chair, you'll find a wide variety available. Look for one with a commode opening and padding to prevent skin damage.

If you transfer to a seat inside the shower, there are a number of options: you can purchase a shower with a built-in seat, or you can add a seat as required. Optional seats are available in a number of configurations: adjustable, fold-up, reclining seat, high seat, etc. Ensure you get the support you need e.g. padding. The seat should be close to the showerhead, valves and soap caddy.

 

Transferring is made easier by conveniently placed grab bars. Make sure you get the variety that still provides grip when wet or soapy.

 

A single lever faucet is the easiest to operate as you can adjust temperature and flow with single motion. Anti-scald valves, either thermostat or pressure-controlled, are great options as well.

 

For the showerhead, consider a detachable slide-mounted version that can be raised or lowered depending on who's using it. An on/off switch is another option. The showerhead should be located on the side of the shower, close to the controls.

 

 

 

There are some great after-market gadgets to make bathing or showering easier.

 

If you're able to use your tub as a shower enclosure, there are a number of seats and transferring devices available such as a tub slide shower that transfer outside the tub, and then slide in.

 

As for hardware, all of the above in the shower section applies.

 

If you enjoy a bath, there are some devices on the market intended to make submerging an easy process. They can be battery operated and most work similar to a lift. As well, grab bars in the right location can help you transfer smoothly and safely.

 

 

 

If you transfer on to your toilet or use a lift, you will find it much easier if it's the right height. Eighteen inches is just about perfect for most people. You can choose to modify a standard toilet with a raised toilet seat or a spacer that fits between your toilet and the floor or buy one with the right height.  Many people find that a raised toilet seat, with spaces to allow you or an attendant to clean or carry out a toilet routine, is the best option. Having room on either side of the toilet allows for easier transfers.  Carefully placed grab bars also helps.

 

If you use a commode chair, you'll obviously find that a standard height toilet works just fine. There are a number of toilet accessories to consider including grab bars mounted on the toilet itself and a swing out toilet paper holder.

 

 

 

 

It is your choice. There are an increasing number of architects who specialize in barrier free design. 

 

Bathroom renovations are best left to a professional. As with any contracted construction work, look for references, a willingness to work with you, and previous experience with bathrooms.  Keep the standard 15% holdback until you're satisfied with the work.

 

Above all, take your time with the planning so that construction or installation is a smooth process.

 

Bathroom renovations, even the simplest, can be costly. Funding sources can come from a public or private insurer.  Depending on a number of factors, such as your income and where you live in Canada, there are programs that can help offset the cost of renovations. For example, the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) offers a renovation grant program for qualifying homeowners. 
 

If you're like my friend, you need to know there's a better bathroom for you. And when you finally get the right stuff that meets your needs, you'll wonder why you didn't get it a long time ago.